27th & 28th October, 1947 - Ron is laid low with a cold, bad news and 'end of holiday blues'... but Beirut nightlife seems to help.

Monday, 27^th October, 1947

I now have a cold, from where I have obtained it I don’t know.  In the club this morning I received a phone message from Dorothy saying that she was too ill to meet me this evening.

I was very disappointed at this and I was not looking forward to and evening alone.

 

As it happened I went out with Rich & Stan first to the “Dug Out” to hear the really brilliant pianist there then on to a cinema to see “Bedelia.”  We then went to the Kit-Kat for the latter part of the floor show then on to the “Copacabana” for a few beers.  Here we met John who having taken Liz home at 11.30 after a rather dull evening came back here when he saw the light.

We found it amusing that ‘Ajram’ the millionaire owner should favour us with so much of his attention until about 3.30 in the morning.

 

Tuesday, 28^th October, 1947

Well the fateful day has arrived.

All packed and ready to return to the routine of Palestine life.  We had to wait for two hours as the truck had broken down.  This made us late and meant it was dark long before we reached Jenin so that we spent the night there.  I met Bob & we spent a quiet evening in the canteen.

Supplementary Post- Beirut snaps

Dad took a few shots of Beirut that I haven't used in the diary posts... here they are:

"Beirut 1947.

The mountains in

the background are

the home of the 

Winter Sports."

Baalbek

I have now been able to identify this building.  The wonders of Google!  It is the great Umayyad Mosque in Damascus

...but where is this Square?  Damascus or Beirut?

Harmonising horns on high speed American cars...

Ron is on the far left

The lovely Erica... the one with the 18' yacht!

Beach party with the Ladies from the British Council,...

...and now from the other side.

24th - 26th October, 1947 - Ron is troubled by the locals and his best laid plans go awry...

Friday, 24^th October, 1947

The trades people (if one can call them that) are a damned nuisance.  A long line of taxis we have to pass and each one in turn asks us if we need one.  Walking along with cameras in our hand does not make us immune to the professional camera man who can’t resist pestering us.  Beggars are very numerous but not too persistent in their requests for “Bucksheesh.” 

The boy driving his flock of turkeys...

After snapping a boy driving a flock of turkeys through the street the other day he was quite put out when we would not pay him.  The traffic laws if any seem never to be complied with here and it is hell at times in a busy street, nearly mad from hearing harmonising horns on the high speed American cars.

To day we went out in the yacht but as there was veritably no wind had to give it up.  The Arab skipper was to have today off so I rather think he was a bit cunning.

Went to see “The Batman” - “More full of action than the American comic.” – We found at the end it was a serial.

Saturday, 25^th October, 1947

Joe and I wandered around town this morning looking for suitable subjects to photograph.  We went to the docks where we were told that photographing was not allowed.

After lunch Erica came to the Pension and John returned bearing a note for me from Dorothy in which she said she had developed flue & would be unable to come to the dinner & dance as we had planned.

I'm guessing Erica took this one...

...and here she is - Erica...

Erica, Joe, Rich, Stan & I went out in her 18’ foot yacht and enjoyed a pleasant sail.  Joe was unfortunately sick just before we entered harbour.

I went alone to the cinema tonight and who should sit in the next seats but one, Joe & Erica.

Sunday, 26^th October, 1947

I went up to see Dorothy this morning & found her still ill, no arrangements could be made for tomorrow evening.  She liked the photograph & wrote on my copy. 

"To Ron -
Here's wishing you
good luck, and many
more Happy Holidays!
Dotty."

This evening Joe & I went to see “Cloak & Dagger.”

22nd - 23rd October, 1947 - Those "top" American girls... to have and have not.

Wednesday, 22^nd October, 1947

With Joe & John I went to look up Dorothy this morning to date her for Saturday evening.  We found her at home and she kindly accepted.  She has a marvellous personality & I am looking forward to Saturday.  Next John wanted to see Liz so we went to her house where we found she was not in.  Her mother a charming woman invited us in to lemonade and cookies.  The American girls and women I have met here are really the tops.  They are very much more sociable than English girls.

We later went to the Legation and invited some of the girls down to their hut at “Saint Simon”[1] this afternoon.

We whizzed down to the beach in one of the American taxis that screech about the town all day.  The sea was exceptionally rough but it was very good fun in the breakers.

source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/To_Have
_and_Have_Not_(film)

Joe & I went to the cinema this evening to see Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall in “To Have & Have Not”

We are all hoping it will be fine for a sail tomorrow but the sea is very rough to night and we had a shower of rain this afternoon.

[1] Saint Simon and Saint Michel were two high end beach resorts in Beirut famed for their European style appeal.  Now it seems times have changed as this article outlines 
SEASIDE INFORMAL HOUSING Mashallah News

Thursday, 23rd October, 1947

We went in a dubious mood to the harbour this morning and as we half expected were told that it was too rough for sailing.

As we had our bathing gear with us Erica, Joe & I went to the A.U.B.[2] for a swim.

Pigeon Rocks - unsurprisingly, they are still there
source: http://www.placesonline.com/asia/lebanon/
travel_guide.asp

In the afternoon Joe & I went for a walk along the coast to some large rocks known as the “Pidgeon Rocks” why I can’t guess.

As these rocks were halfway to Saint Simon we nearly decided to walk there & taxi back.  However we turned back through the city.

At diner John & Lofty came in late & informed us that they had been to Saint Simon with Dotty & Liz.  They had been very secretive about this so had their legs pulled.

After dinner Joe & I stretched out on our beds to wait until it was time to go to the cinema.  We must have tired ourselves out walking for we both went to sleep missing the show.

The "lagoon" at the American University of Beirut, 1940's
source: http://almashriq.hiof.no/

[2] A.U.B - American University of Beirut

20th & 21st October, 1947 - Boys meet girls... Anyone for tennis?

The Martyr's Square,
Beirut 1947

Monday, 20^th October, 1947

This morning I went for a walk around the town and took a few snaps.

In the afternoon we all went to the St George’s Club for a swim and one of us did some unsuccessful fishing.

At 8.30pm we went to a party in one of the beautiful houses on the University Campus.  Our hostess was Canadian the other girls were four Americans, one Scottish-Lebanese and one elderly chaperone – an English lady.

These girls were all very gay and between us the evening was a great success.  I found the American girls very attractive and quite good dancers and conversationalists.  One was a “Dumb Blonde” type but got along all right with our chaps.

Our hostess was particularly charming and kept the party moving when it had tendencies of becoming stagnant.

Closing at about 1am we each paired off and took a girl to her home which was outside the University grounds.  I took Agnes the Scottish girl home, and was second back to the Pension.  When Joe came back I was asleep.  Soon after he woke me as it was pouring with rain and the windows needed closing.

Tuesday, 21^st October, 1947

Dorothy

This morning two of the chaps went to the University with the hope of playing tennis with Dorothy & Liz.  Joe & I went to watch.  The rain during the night made tennis impossible.  Liz came to the courts with Dorothy but left when she saw the condition.  We took Dot into the Milk Bar and afterwards we had a few sets of table tennis.

In the afternoon we went to the club for a swim after which we played table tennis & snooker.

Mrs Brice (Betty) had apparently forgotten to inform the club of her intended dance this evening.  We soon cleared the floors of rugs etc. and also of one lorgnetted lady who looked very perturbed.

The girls arrived – three to our four boys.  The music was provided by a portable gramophone and a small collection of records.

We all enjoyed the dancing and when we all thought we heard each record enough times we side tracked into a quiet bottle party.  After a few more dances we saw the girls back to the Legation.

18th & 19th October, 1947 - A Beirut Beach Party with the ladies from the British Council

Saturday, 18^th October, 1947

This morning our party went to a beach just outside Beirut, to a beach hut loned (sic) to the British Council by the Minister here.  Three of the British Council ladies joined and we swam and boated and pick-nicked then we swam again in the afternoon.  It was a quiet party but very pleasant.  Arrangements were made for some girls from the Legation to join us next day.

The wife of the 

Representative of the British Council invited us back to 

her house for a drink.  A beautiful and very large house with a well stocked bar.

Joe & I went to an open air cinema this evening to see “Love Letters” – the mosquitoes bothered us.

Sunday, 19^th October, 1947

St George's Hotel, Beirut
Source: http://www.worldviewcities.org/beirut/

We had to cancell our trip to the beach today when a heavy thunder storm burst at 9am this morning.  The Legation girls sent round a note inviting us to an informal dance at the St George’s Club on Tuesday evening.  The storm washed away much of the embankment on the sea wall in from the Pension.  The labourers are so slow that it will probably take months to repair.

16th - 17th October, 1947 - Tutty Frutty! Sea, Cinema, Silk & Syria...

"Home thoughts from Abroad.
Mediterranean breaking
on coast near
Beirut 1947."

Thursday, 16^th October, 1947

This morning I walked around the town and bought some postage stamps for my collection.  My friend and I closed our walk at the American University where we enjoyed our first “Tutty Frutty,” the American concoction of ice cream and assorted tinned fruits.

In the afternoon we went swimming from the University Club shore.  It was a very pleasant afternoon.

I find it very amusing to hear the young Arabs attending the University speaking with a broad American accent.

source: http://www.atticpaper.com/index.html

“Little Giant” the Bud Abbot, Lou Costello film entertained us this evening

I have even seen some bad exhibitions in London but those were mild compared to those we saw returning to our hotel via side streets.  Women standing in doorways with just under ware (sic) on and little boys and a few little girls running after us to try and persuade us to enjoy the pleasures to be offered by girls of 16 or 17 years old.

Amawi Mosque
source: http://www.panoramio.com

Friday, 17^th October, 1947

Ron is second from Right , back row.

"The six pillars of the Roman Built
temple to Jupiter.  Baalbek 1947"

At 6am this morning we all set out for a trip in a local bus the owner of which is an Australian who runs a fleet of Buses including a Pulman, Damascus to Bagdad.[1]  Our trip which he provided free of charge took us first to the 3000 years old Greek & Roman ruins at Baalbek.  Then we went on into Syria to Damascus.  We were taken to our hotel where a guide met us.  We had our lunch then set off on a tour of the city.  Starting with the “Bazaar” we were shown through its long wide streets and on to the Amawi Mosque which is the 2^nd largest in the world.  Inside the body of St John the Baptist is buried as this was a Christian Church at first.

Riding in a Gerry we went to watch the famous Damas[k] Silks being made.  Mosaic wood work is also made here.

The law forbids anyone to take photographs on the streets.  I think this is to prevent tourists photographing the lower elements of the city.  Returning to our hotel we waited for the bus to take us back to Beirut.

[1] I am greatly indebted to Børre Ludvigsen who among other interesting comments has informed me that the company to which Dad is referring was the Nairn Bus Company famed throughout the Middle East for its desert journeys.

I also thank the SyrianHistory.com website for use of the image of the Nairns Pullman bus

10th - 15th October, 1947 - Ron's on leave and the country boy learns a thing or two on his Lebanese adventure...

Friday, 10^th October, 1947

Saturday, 11^th October, 1947

Sunday, 12^th October, 1947

No entries

Monday, 13^th October, 1947

I went to court this morning prepared to give evidence against ABU TIYIB the fellow I arrested while I was in Tubas.  He was brought before the Magistrate and after he had been charged with the possession of 25 cartridges he pleaded guilty.  He was then fined three pounds.

I rushed back to the station, prepared a leave ticket for my 14 days then I changed into civvies and finished packing.

As there was no truck going to Depot Jenin my first stop, I had to go by bus.

In the depot met Bob Matthews and in the evening we went to the camp cinema.

There were five of the Beirut Party assembled in Depot Jenin not one of whom I knew.  We spent the night in an empty hut with the two blacks we were provided with.

Tuesday, 14^th October, 1947

Up at 5 this morning we had our breakfast which was very poor then travelled by truck to Haifa.  We collected £10 in advance of our wages and £4.850mils ration allowance.

We had a much better breakfast in the temporary mess built since the Police Headquarters were blown up.  The damage done was very extensive to the Main Building and all the Jewish shops and cafes nearby were damaged, some very badly.

Aftermath of the 29th September attack by the Irgun on
Haifa Police Station
source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
File:Bombe_Irgoun_29_dec_1947.jpg

Leaving Haifa, we were escorted by an armoured car to the border post of Ras El Naqura where our passports were checked.  We then passed through into Lebanon.  A little cafe near the Post afforded an excuse for a beer each.

We followed the coast road through country similar to Palestine.  A road block had been set across the road at the first village we reached and a mob swarmed around.  This was in protest as…

Wednesday, 15^th October, 1947

…they had not had any bread for two days.  On finding we were English I heard one man shout “French, Germans, English – they are all the same.”

Beirut was at first a disappointment as I was expecting quite a European air about it.  It is quite a large city full of large buildings which are the cause of narrow streets and a general dirty atmosphere.

A cosmopolitan city, our hotel proprietor is Greek & speaks eight languages.  The Hotel is situated right on the Seafront and affords quite a good view.  The sea front is not good as it is very rocky with no beach.  Casinos & Cabarets dot it at intervals.  Construction is in progress along most of its length.

 

Ron's on Holiday suddenly there's lots to write!

This evening I went with three others to see what on behind the lights of “Follies Bergers” a typical brothel.  Four women leapt upon us on making our entry and made no bones of their profession.  Requesting me to stay the night one of them exposed herself to prove she was clean.  We were persuaded to buy each of them a brandy and then we left in disgust.